![]() In my opinion, there is one true universal coolant - the original green stuff. Its existence would totally dominate the aftermarket in a short time. ![]() To partially refill any color of coolant with a universal one would be a great asset. Do you have to replace or can you top off one coolant with another? A truly universal coolant would help matters greatly, Providing the ability to use one coolant for all purposes. OK, there are lots of coolants and different colors out there. Chrysler, Ford, and many European manufacturers are using these hybrid OATs. Silicate will also repair minor surface defects. ![]() Silicate is desired because it provides quick-acting protection for aluminum surfaces. They do not have 2-EHA but use other organic acids and add a little silicate. Group 3 - the group of hybrid OAT coolants called G-05. Five years, or 150,000-mile intervals are often recommended in this group of coolants. The corrosion inhibitors in this group are slower acting, but longer lasting. Honda has one coolant dyed a dark green, which looks almost black when it is dirty. Volkswagen-Audi has the same formula, but it is pink. General Motor’s OAT-based DexCool is orange. This formula gives longer life, thus replacing the short-lived silicates and phosphates. They contain 2-ethylhexanoic-acid or 2-EHA and other organic acids, but no silicates or phosphates. Group 2 – coolants based on the organic acid technology (OAT). Unfortunately, many motorists do not keep up with maintenance, even with encouragement from their mechanics. If the customer fails to perform this maintenance, then expensive radiator, heater core and pump replacements soon follow. Why not make this the universal coolant? You could, and maybe we have, but the corrosion inhibitors have a very short life and the antifreeze must be changed every other year or every 30,000 miles. Virtually any vehicle can use this fluid. This familiar green liquid has proven its worth in all the temperature extremes of North America. They have quick-acting silicate and phosphate corrosion inhibitors that do a good job inhibiting corrosion on both iron and aluminum surfaces. The three basic divisions include the following: Group 1 - the original glycol-based “green†antifreeze we are all familiar with. A blue coolant may have the same formula as a red coolant. Indeed, yellow coolants may have very different compositions. We will not define every possible coolant and its corresponding color. Again, thanks to those who posted previously and helped me through the process.Quick copy and paste to explain the various types, colours and uses of antifreeze, Let us begin to sort this out by pointing out the three principal groups of coolants. As you get close to the two minute mark crack the throttle several times (per the shop manual) - it will remove the air bubbles and you can top off the radiator and replace the cap. If you are careful you will not spill a drop.ġ0. TIP pour the fluid slowly and listen - there will be some fluid noise as you get to the fill mark. This funnel gave me complete and easy fill access to the radiator. I filled the radiator with a long transmission fluid funnel. Contrary to the tip to use a turkey baster to suck out the fluid from the overflow bottle, I removed the bottle and cleaned it inside and out per the shop manual instructions. I still had a drop cloth under the bike - and I am glad I did when I removed the overflow bottle. When it was drained I then removed the plug completely.ħ. This prevented the fluid from shooing out across the floor. When I loosened the drain plug I did not remove it - I took it almost all the way out but left it attached by several threads. I used an empty gallon windshield washer fluid bottle on its side with a hole cut on the side to catch the fluid. I put the side stand on a brick to give it several inches of height to be able to get at the drain bolt on the waterpump from below.ĥ. Its a little tight, but you can get your hand in there to remove the cap.Ĥ. Then I was able to slightly lift the tank without removing anything else which gave me access to the radiator cap from the right side (side with the foot brake not the shifter). I removed the seats and took out the bolt holding the gas tank. I used the genuine premixed Honda motorcycle coolant that I was able to buy on EBay for less than $20.00 delivered.ģ. The copper washer for the coolant drain plug is part number 90463-ML7-000 It is 6.5 mm and costs $2.50 at the dealerĢ. Here are some things I did/learned that made it an easy process.ġ. I used a combination of the tips posted here and the shop manual to do the change. Many thanks to all the previous posters who gave me some tips. I just finished changing my coolant in my 2005 Honda Shadow Aero 750 for the first time.
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